Welcome to You Gotta Try This, a regular SCENE feature in which we highlight some of the tastiest food in the Yakima Valley. It’s been a tough 15 months for restaurant workers and owners. But it’s been inspiring to watch them adapt while continuing to produce food worth raving about. This is our effort at recognizing their very best. We hope it helps them. We know it will help all of you hungry people.
■ What you gotta try: You gotta try the pizza, hummus (and beer) at The Kiln, the West Valley taproom and restaurant that opened last fall at 815 S. 72nd Ave. It is the among the latest on the Yakima Valley’s growing list of outdoor beer-drinking joints with large enough lawns to accommodate kids. You can stop by there, order some food and beer, find a table, tell your kids to stay where you can see them, and then let them run around until the food shows up. It’s perfect.
There are plenty of places like that around here — Balebreaker Brewing Co., 1801 Birchfield Road; Single Hill Brewery, 102 N. Naches Ave.; Cowiche Creek Brewing Co., 514 Thompson Road; and Bron Yr Aur Brewing Co., 12160 U.S. Highway 12 near Naches, to name a few — and I will accompany you to any of them any time you invite me. Some of them have terrific food, too (he said, nodding in the direction of the Italian grinder at Cowiche Creek and the pulled pork and apple pizza at Bron Yr Aur.)
The Kiln is different than those others because it’s not a brewery. Instead of making beer, it offers a range of beers from local and regional producers. (The Public House of Yakima, 5703 Tieton Drive, works on a similar model and has a house-made pretzel that probably merits its own You Gotta Try This feature at some point.)
■ Why you gotta try it: OK, to get this out of the way, I recognize it seems silly to demand someone try something so quotidian as a hummus plate. (What’s next? A rave about the peanuts some dive bar sets out?) But, please, hear me out here. This isn’t a place that opens a tub of supermarket hummus and sets a lump of it on a plate next to a couple of carrot sticks and celery. This hummus is house-made and outstanding. And it’s served with a half loaf of fresh-baked focaccia amid a mountain of olives, red onions, cucumbers, tomatoes and feta. You could order it as a meal and still have leftovers.
You shouldn’t do that, though. You should order it as an appetizer and share it, so you’ll also have room for pizza. I’ve tried several pizzas at The Kiln, which should be lauded for ambitious specialty pies, such as the Sweet ‘n’ Salty (olive oil, goat cheese, bacon, Granny Smith apples and balsamic). But the best one is also the simplest: the humble pepperoni. When they get it just right, it’s as good as pizza gets — crispy, bubbly crust with just a bit of chew to it and a bold red sauce that stands up to the mozzarella, Parmesan and pepperoni that top it. And while I’ll allow that pepperoni tastes vary and some people prefer the giant, floppy slices of it, I’m a devotee of the crispy kind they use at The Kiln.
■ What else you gotta know about the joint: The pizzas cost $14 to $24, with the pepperoni coming in at a very reasonable $16. Appetizers cost $10 to $15, with the hummus plate at a worth-every-penny $12. I haven’t tried them so I can’t vouch for them, but I imagine the sandwiches and salads at The Kiln are pretty good. The former are made with that great focaccia and will run you $15. The latter range from $12 to $15.
It’s open 2-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, noon-9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, and noon-7 p.m. Sundays.
There’s an indoor seating area for people whose kids don’t demand to run free out on the lawn. And there’s an outdoor patio with plenty of shade as well as picnic tables with umbrellas on the lawn proper. That combined with the food and beer (and a kids menu featuring mac-and-cheese bites) make it the perfect spot for families.
You can reach The Kiln at 509-426-2865.
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June 24, 2021 at 02:31AM
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You Gotta Try This: Pizza and hummus at The Kiln hit the spot - Yakima Herald-Republic
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