HEADY TIMES Audrey Hepburn, in a white Givenchy turban, found William Holden extremely funny on the set of 1954’s ‘Sabrina.’
Photo: Getty ImagesWHEN WE first meet Audrey Hepburn’s titular character in the 1954 film “Sabrina,” she’s a ponytailed chauffeur’s daughter who pines after a wealthy womanizer, though he’s barely clocked her existence. Endeavoring to cure her perpetual heartache, her father ships her off to cooking school in Paris. Months later, she returns to Long Island a cosmopolitan woman versed in art, opera and soufflé. “If you should have any difficulty recognizing your daughter,” she writes in a letter to good old dad, “I shall be the most sophisticated woman at the Glen Cove station.” Cut to a soignée new Sabrina radiating moxie in a striking black Hubert de Givenchy suit, her daring pixie cut caressed by the couturier’s sleek white turban. Her freshly discovered confidence has been made manifest.
“ As we maintain social distance from our hairstylists, turbans have proved a fashionable hack. ”
That film marked the beginning of Ms. Hepburn’s and Mr. Givenchy’s decadeslong fashion collaboration. Iconic though she is, Sabrina is not a figure turbans generally conjure. For some, the unconventional head coverings bring to mind kooky fortunetellers and aging, booze-soaked actresses, triggering not romantic yearning but skepticism or outright laughter. Creative director of Paris millinery Maison Michel, Priscilla Royer, knows that she’s properly styled hers once she stops giggling at herself in the mirror. “When you don’t feel ridiculous anymore, you’re ready to go out,” she said.
Tie One On
Designer and turban devotee Camilla Stærk’s how-to on twisting a scarf into a makeshift turban
Step 1: Fold a large scarf (around 90” x 20”) lengthwise and hang it around your neck.
Step 2: Cross the scarf, making a V above your forehead. Your hairline should show.
Step 3: Cross at the back of the neck and then again at the forehead.
Step 4: Make one or two knots to one side at the front of your head.
Step 5: Twist the loose ends and tuck them under the first layer of the turban.
Step 6: In mere minutes, you have a Hepburn-worthy turban that elevates a blah outfit.
I’ve never felt ridiculous in my turbans, which I’ve worn weekly since 2009. Neither booze-soaked nor clairvoyant, I just feel fabulous. From the scarfs I tie around my head in the summer to the vintage, sculpted satin styles I put on for evenings out (remember those?) to the playful modern versions I’ve flaunted recently for Zoom calls, turbans can elegantly punctuate most of my looks, achieving maximum aesthetic impact with minimal effort.
“Turbans create a sense of completion,” said Camilla Stærk, the co-founder of New York lifestyle brand Stærk & Christensen. The 45-year-old designer has twisted vintage scarfs into turbans almost every day for more than 25 years. She likes how they frame her face and cover her long locks, which she stacks in a bun or tucks into her wrap, leaving a few loose strands exposed.
Even if you’d normally shy away from turbans, now is a great time to give the look a try. As we miserably maintain social distance from our hairstylists, they’ve proven a fashionable hack for the willing. Whether quarantine has left you with split ends or ombre roots, this unfussy headpiece hides all. “Just put everything inside and the turban does the job,” said Ms. Royer.
You certainly won’t go unnoticed. Like Ms. Hepburn’s post-Paris Sabrina, turbans attract attention. Amber Butchart, a fashion historian in Kent, U.K., and an enthusiastic turban advocate whose collection numbers around 100, explained that, in the Ottoman Empire, lavish, jewel-embellished turbans denoted status. In the 1920s, they signified a Western “shift in femininity” from “Edwardian madam” to liberated flapper. During WWII, French women wore outsize turbans, seen as a symbol of resistance against the restrictions Nazis placed on fabric during their occupation of France.
Dating back thousands of years, turbans hold religious and cultural significance everywhere from the Middle East and Africa to Asia and Europe. Sikhs, for instance, have worn turbans for centuries. And before the Civil War, American plantation owners gave turbans a sinister symbolism, requiring female slaves to wear head wraps or kerchiefs over their hair. Over the last two centuries, many African-American women have reclaimed the headwrap as a celebration of their heritage and identity.
To those intimidated by turbans, Ms. Butchart, 40, said, “just don’t be. It’s a really easy thing to wear.” She added that they pair particularly well with luxurious lounge wear, a combination the designer Paul Poiret pushed in the early 1900s. Ms. Royer insists they can be styled to fit anyone’s aesthetic—from gamine to worldly sophisticate. She suggests trying a “nonchalant” draped design with a masculine shirt for day or a tuxedo for evening. And Ms. Stærk extols the creative joys of experimenting with scarfs. She advises novices to start with a stretchy wrap, such as the silk jersey ones she sells.
Turbans might seem complicated to pull off, but Ms. Royer maintains all that’s required is a little panache, like the kind Sabrina brought back from her transformative Paris jaunt. The designer explained, “You just need to feel the vibe.”
TAKE THE WRAP / FIVE TURBAN-ISH HEADPIECES TO MASK UNCOIFFED MANES
1. Turban, $450, gucci.com; 2. Maison Michel Turban, $840, farfetch.com; 3. Sophie Buhai Headband, $414, luisaviaroma.com; 4. MaryJane Claverol Turban, $195, veronicabeard.com; 5. Cult Gaia Headband, $60, net-a-porter.com
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